Microlighters

Highly confused

I have an analogue oil temp gauge on a 2.3 vw motor which gives me a reading of 130 degrees celcius during circuits, outside temp 35 degrees.
I reconnected the probes to my stratomaster and get a reading of 65 degrees.
Is there anyway of taking a more accurate reading with some sort of mobile thermometer and what is the expected "normal" temp for oil on the volla motor.





No I cannot ask Boet cause he suggested I use the motor as a boat anchor

Brian wrote:Highly confused

No I cannot ask Boet cause he suggested I use the motor as a boat anchor

Sorry but had to laugh

Doesn't the Stratomaster manual come with calibration instructions?

An easy calibration is to take out the oil temp sender, and drop it in a cup of boiling water, then make sure the gauge reads somewhere around 100 degrees. Calibrate it for at least two temperatures, and you can be pretty sure the the oil temp it reads is correct.

Brian, I personally enjoy analogue gauges, similar application to yours...this evening I changed the oil in the HKS 700e after the mods I have completed. The HKS operation manual states that ideal oil temp between 80-100 degrees. It also states that only motor vehicle synthetic oil to be used. In the past I have used Shell Ultra 0W-40 but find that at higher oil temps over 100 degrees the pressure drops quite hectic. Within limits but a serious movement. The max allowed temp is 120 degrees. I have a mKhulu oil cooler on the strut which works well but in mid summer at ambients of 38-40 it runs at about 110-115 degrees (vdo gauge). BMW have just upped the stakes with synthetic oils demands to oil companies (for the M3) and I have just poured in their spec Castrol EDGE 10W-60. I ground run the motor before and achieved 120 degrees (ambient 30 degrees) with 3,5 bar oil pressure at 5000 rpm. Same temp/rpm after change and achieved 4,1 bar. BUT it took much longer to get that hot...This tells me something. The HKS is not unlike a VW in that its oil cooled but has two oil pumps. I think 130 degrees maybe a bit warm and possibly look at synthetics ?? It is possible to attach a fluke tester to monitor the temp with the correct attachments. I have no technical knowledge of oils but this direct comparison I have discovered can only be a beneficial change ?? Maybe some forum member will be able to advise if this decision is correct ?? I am satisfied.

eish zulu1

zuly where do you use the HKS in?

Its installed on a Aquilla 2, I have remade all the inlet and exhaust manifolds and changed the ignition system. Fitted efi and removed it as it was complicated. Now completed and ground running will be flying this week..

zulu1

A maiden flight for your new engine? Which year it was produced? Is it the 65hps?

I did 250 hrs with it before it was modified, it was OK but not right as the air filters were deprived of air behind the prop. It has now short series horizontal manifolds similar to the HKS originals (which I made patterns for and cast them) as well as a straight through exhaust. The carbs collect air from the front now. It was 60 hp before and would rev to 6,200 rpm. Same pitch prop is now giving me 6,600 rpm. Its running very sweet now as I couldnt balance the carbs perfectly. The project was started as an "alternate" engine to the 582 with the rules that were so imminent. Fortunately thats gone by the way. But if nobody does nothing, nothing gets done.
The HKS is so expensive now new its not a economic option as a replacement. Even with a 800 hr tbo.

They are US $9,000 plus. Thats a lot of money for a small engine like this, seems a shame as they were similar priced to 582 a few years back. Thats the Euro/Dollar exchange rate for you.

I have the patterns etc should anyone need the manifolds and exhaust, carb brackets etc. I have also used the JBM carb rubbers from the states which are harder than the Rotax/HKS originals from Japan as well as cheaper. Sounds like a Ducati...awesome. But its got to fly first...

Also removed 3 kgs by using ally !!

Anyway sorry this is off topic, best he uses a analogue gauge to test before connecting the real ones. Also look at oils as described ??

zulu1

If I may correct you

Extension of the TBO:
HKS700E from S/N 100600 can increase the TBO from 800hrs to 1000hrs, or an 8 year period of operation.

Johnsa, Thank you, I hadnt read the HKS web site !! Its dated January 2009. So if you consider the Rotax costs its about equal but excluding the fuel savings. ZU-LUI is a work horse for testing avionics so for our usage its absolutely perfect.

Sorry we have hijacked the thread...

Will post pics when flying on a seperate thread..

Ciao Zulu1

justin.schoeman wrote:An easy calibration is to take out the oil temp sender, and drop it in a cup of boiling water, then make sure the gauge reads somewhere around 100 degrees. Calibrate it for at least two temperatures, and you can be pretty sure the the oil temp it reads is correct.

are you at sea level? otherwise use a thermometer, preferably digital (fluke multimeters have this option) and measure the temps the water is boiling at. then calibate the guage.. Water in JHB would typically boil at 93deg C

Thanx for the feedback guys.

I changed the sender unit today and temp is spoton.
For good measure I also changed the oil to the suggested castrol edge. At that price I know I will never ever ever have any hassles again.

Thanx for a great forum guys

Brian

And I maintain: IT IS A FINE ENGINE FOR A BOAT............

En mag jy ook n wonderlike dag he Boet.

Ek wil net vir jou byse daardie vortex generators werk regtig soos n droom.

Groete
Brian

Hallo Brain, just yanking your chain.. RE: Vortex generators, I told you so. Bly jy is tevrede, en jou vliegtuigie is nou veiliger. 9 Die vollas is nie so bad nie, net party van die bl&^%$#@ms wat die goed opbou vir errouplanes weet nie so lekker wat hulle doen nie. Ek het baie baie amper my gat gesien met n Volla.)