503 E box starter problem

[Biggles]

After the trike had been stored for a while I found the starter was not working. I Had the battery on a charger and it registered teh battery was OK, but still no starter. Just a loud click from the starter. I had written it off and was on the list of things to replace. The other day I tried it and it worked perfectly. I then tried it after a few hours and again it worked perfectly. Today just a loud click again. I tried it after a 2 hour flight and again... click.

Anyone with similar experience or a clue as to what is wrong?

[Petrodactyl]

Here are some things that you can do to work out where the problem is.

The thick (usually green) wire leading to your starter motor is what carries the high current that makes your starter turn. If you trace that thick wire back towards your battery you will find a solenoid relay bolted to the frame with a thick wire that is permanently live coming from the battery bolted onto one terminal and the wire from your starter bolted to the other. The small wire on the spade connector is from your ignition switch. Current from your ignition switch uses an electromagnetic coil to operate the switch that carries the heavy starting current through the solenoid to the starter.

The loud click is the solenoid pulling in which means that the circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid is OK. If you use a volt meter (set to a setting of 12v or more) or a 12v test lamp between the starter side terminal and earth(the engine block) you should get voltage, or the light coming on when the ignition switch is operated. If you don't, then there is a problem with the solenoid relay. If you do, then there is a problem with the starter.

A bush mechanic way - definitely not recommended: Make sure that the mags are off, the prop is clear and then bridge the 2 terminals on the soleniod possibly with an old screwdriver. This will cause arcing which will damage both the screw driver and the terminals, and the sparks could start a fire as the fuel is close by. If the engine turns with this method then the starter obviously works, but solenoid is faulty. Do this only if you have no test light or volt meter, and be very aware that it is very risky and damaging. ( possibly have a fire extinguisher at the ready.)

Hope that this helps

[Biggles]

I have voltmeter... Idon't fancy burning down my aerie. will troublke shoot tomorrow.

[Duck Rogers]

A bush mechanic way - definitely not recommended: Make sure that the mags are off, the prop is clear and then bridge the 2 terminals on the soleniod possibly with an old screwdriver. This will cause arcing which will damage both the screw driver and the terminals, and the sparks could start a fire as the fuel is close by. If the engine turns with this method then the starter obviously works, but solenoid is faulty. Do this only if you have no test light or volt meter, and be very aware that it is very risky and damaging. ( possibly have a fire extinguisher at the ready.)

Petrodactyl is quite right....BUT

The "Slightly More Refined Bush Mechanic's" way:

1) Disconnect ALL Positive power wire/s from battery
2) Disconnect PLUG WIRES from plugs
3)Disconnect thick wire from starter end
4)Connect old thick-ish piece of wire to starter
5) Get everybody clear of prop
6) Touch other end of thick-ish piece of wire on positive terminal of battery
7) The prop should spin if there's nothing wrong with the starter
08) If it DOES NOT spin then run an earth wire from anywhere on the motor straight to the negative terminal of the battery and repeat step 6, providing everybody and everything is clear of the prop

If it still doesn't spin, the fault is with the starter
If it spins, the fault is at the starter relay and/or wiring to the starter relay

[Morph]

I had a similar problem and found the solenoid to be the problem. This solenoid is a very simple device. A small relay like coil, that pulls an armature in when the key is turned. The armature has a flat copper plate on it forming a T that shorts out the Battery to Starter connections . The shorting plate often get's burned out with sparking. You can open the solenoid by carefully de-soldering the 12 ignition switch connector and removing the two nuts on the main connectors. Carefully take it apart, watch for springs that shoot off and end up on the other side of the room, or down a drain. Clean the copper plate of all the burn mark using sand paper, or turn it around

[Biggles]

After a few flights this problem has gone away. Morph your explanation makes sense and the corrosion has rubbed/ fallen away.