Carlton's KR1 rebuild - ZS-UHO

[flykr]

The trick in making fuel tanks is to apply as many layers of cloth in one session as possible. I first applied 2 layers of cloth to form the basic shape and once this had cured the surface was sanded and the final 4 layers of cloth applied. A generous amount of epoxy/micro was used to prevent pinholes, pin holes allow fuel to seep under the surface which can delaminate the layers of fibreglass cloth. Once this process starts you start to get soft spots in the tank and eventually the tank starts leaking.

[flykr]

Once the top and bottom of the tank was completed the two section were bonded together with 3 layers of fibreglass tape (3 layers inside and 3 layers on the outside of the tank).

Finally the front was closed off and sealed.

[flykr]

The epoxy must cure for at least 4 weeks before you put fuel in it.
If done properly the tank should last you 10 years, I have one in my KR2 which is 13 years old and still going strong.

[flykr]

The canopy took two month's to construct and this is my second attempt at making it (the first one was way too high). It still needs to be finished off and fitted to the fuzz. One thing I found with polyester resins it shrinks quite a bit once it has cured. My once perfect fitting canopy has shrunk about 3mm so will need some bracing on the inside to make it fit again. I would have preferred tinted plexiglas but I could not justify the R6000 cost to import one from the USA. This one will have to do for now.

[flykr]

This is my version of a KR seat constructed from 2mm aluminium. The canopy is quite streamlined so I've lowered the seat about 2" to allow for more headroom.

[Morph]

3M have a product called EC776. It's a sealing compound for all types of fuel tanks. Pour it in, slosh it around and it seals all the holes and cracks etc. Needs 24 hours to cure. Costs about R350 per liter and 1 liter covers 8sqm

[Griffin]

How did you make the canopy? It sounds as though you made it in a mould or on a former from resin

[flykr]

Thanks Morph, I will look into it if I find any leaks in mine. Will it stick to epoxy?

Griffin,
The canopy was carved from polyurethane foam using the fuel tank and turtle deck as a guide (refer to photos on page one). Two layers of glass was then applied, once the glass had cured on the outside the foam was carved out on the inside and two layers of glass applied. The glass was left for a week to cure, I then sprayed it with MS primer and filed in all the imperfections with microballoons. MS primer again and lots of sanding to get a nice smooth surface. Spray again with MS primer and then one coat of paint. Sand again with wet sandpaper and spray second coat of paint….you carry on like this until you get a mirror finish.

[flykr]

Instrument panel is next, this is what it look's like so far...

[grostek]

Hi Carlton,

Very nice workmanship.

Re: tinting of canopy, you also have the option of painting the top of the canopy white to give you some sun protection.

[attachment=0]oo_cxd_dr400porsche.jpg[/attachment]

Kind regards,

Gunter Rostek.

[Morph]

Thanks Morph, I will look into it if I find any leaks in mine. Will it stick to epoxy?

I am using it in my Fibreglass tanks.

It sticks to metals, rubber, glass, any plastics.

Here is the spec sheet

[Guest]

This past weekend I completed the engine installation and connected the CHT + EGT probes to the EMS503. Connecting the CHT probes was a real pain, on my first attempt the probe wire simply broke off when I tightened the spark plug. There is no enough clearance between the plug and the cylinder head and this caused the probe wire to jam and twist off when I tightened the plugs. On the second attempt I put a little more thought into it and tighten it up a little at a time, second probe went on without to much hassle.
Later on (when I retorque the heads) I'll move the probes to a different "more permanent" location on the heads.
Otherwise the rest of the installation went well and I'm quite eager to pull her out the garage and fire up the trusty Ratax 503.

Next task is to finish off the instrument panel and wiring…

[flykr]

Left pic's out the post....

[Miskiet]

Hi Carlton,

Once you'e got the plug for the canopy mirror smooth how do you make the actual canopy? Do you heat a sheet of polycarbonate and vaccuum form it over the plug? (I've heard of people doing this but I've got no expereince!)

She's going to be fast! (and light) I like the idea of a 503 single seater..... Because it is a two stroke it theoretically is capable of aerobatics (You'd need to replace the carbs though - floats!)

[Morph]

Because it is a two stroke it theoretically is capable of aerobatics (You'd need to replace the carbs though - floats!)

You get a Mikuni aerobatics kit for the 503/582. It uses constant pressure carbs